Yamato Tenmokusan Onsen

Yamato Tenmokusan Onsen is a popular hot-spring bathhouse in the city of Koshu. Sitting 1,000 meters above sea level, surrounded by mountains and close to the Yakeyamasawa mountain stream, the spa overlooks a gorge. The spa’s natural hot-spring water has a pH of 10.2, is drawn from the surrounding mountains and has high alkaline content and a high concentration of hydrogen ions, giving it a silky smooth texture. There are both indoor and outdoor baths, so visitors can enjoy the mountain views while bathing.

After soaking in the bath, take a seat in the large tatami-floored lounge room and read or take in the scenery from the window. The bathhouse has a gift shop selling locally grown fruit and vegetables, plus mushrooms often freshly harvested early in the morning, and preserves along with local wine and other food and drink. There is also a cafeteria serving tea, coffee, and classic Japanese dishes such as soba noodles, tempura, and ramen. The outdoor terrace is the perfect place to enjoy your meal with a sweeping view of the gorge.

Yamato Tenmokusan Onsen is close to Seiunji Temple, which is at one end of the Ryumon Gorge walking trail. The roughly 2.4-kilometer walk follows the Hikawa River, passing waterfalls and distinctive rock formations, and is a great way to work up a sweat before or after a hot-spring bath. The area is especially beautiful in autumn when the maple trees turn fiery red.