Nishiura District

Once a major textile producer, the city of Fujiyoshida thrived during the boom years after World War II, when demand for fabric rose dramatically. During the city’s heyday, a monthly market would be held where merchants from across the country gathered to purchase silk and other textiles. At night, they would retire to the Nishiura neighborhood to while away the evenings over food, drinks, and entertainment.

Nishiura is a nightlife district. Those who have visited Golden Gai in Tokyo’s Shinjuku will recognize a similar flavor and atmosphere in Nishiura: the maze of alleyways crammed with dozens of tiny “snack” bars and izakaya, the architecture that’s remained largely unchanged since several decades ago, and the warm glow of lanterns and vintage street lights as you wander down zigzagging side streets.

Nishiura fell into desertion and disrepair with the end of the post-World War II economic boom, but it has seen renewed interest and redevelopment in recent years, as nostalgia for “Showa Retro” has permeated many aspects of Japan’s modern culture. The interest is in a particular portion of the postwar period from roughly 1955 to 1974, or the “Showa 30s,” often thought of as Japan’s Golden Age. Eating and drinking one’s way through Nishiura––or simply wandering around––is an excellent way to experience the charm of “Showa Retro.”